THE NEW LOOK - Lot 43

THE NEW LOOK A collection of vintage fashion sketches (bound in an annotated cardboard folder), drawn on more than 130 loose sheets (16x11 cm to 28x22 cm, often double-sided with several silhouettes on each side) and created during Haute Couture fashion shows in Paris in 1947–1948. Approximately 90 drawings have been identified based on the designers mentioned or details of the designs. Among the names: Christian Dior (his first fashion show in 1947), Elsa Schiaparelli, Jacques Fath, R. Piguet, P. Balmain, J. Dessès, Maggy Rouff, Grès, etc. A few sketches are attributed to a certain “Dyor,” a misspelling (or?) of the name “Dior,” since one of the designer’s famous models, the “Flamant rose” dress, is among these sketches. These drawings were likely created by the same person (or perhaps more than one)—a department store buyer or a sales representative. At that time, many buyers attended Parisian haute couture fashion shows to select designs to adapt or purchase under license. They often sketched several silhouettes on a single sheet, along with technical notes and specifications regarding materials and colors. Note: An exceptional glimpse behind the scenes of Parisian haute couture, this collection of over 130 sheets was created during the 1947–1948 fashion shows, at the very moment when Christian Dior was revolutionizing fashion with his “New Look.” Dior, Schiaparelli, Fath, Balmain, Grès, and Piguet: nearly 90 designs have been identified. Quickly sketched and accompanied by notes on cuts, fabrics, and colors, these silhouettes evoke the work of buyers and representatives who attended the presentations to document the new Parisian collections.